For 11 years I lived in Texas. I wasn’t there by my decision in the first place, and unlike my younger sisters, I never took to the place. I couldn’t handle the heat, the fire ants and hostile shrubbery (mesquite’ll mess you up good), nor the - with apologies to Baptists - Southern Baptists and associated Evangelicals asking me what I considered rude and intrusive questions about my religion (always trouble in my case).
Eventually I came back to my home territory, Wisconsin, land of frigid winters, well-defined seasons, a landscape of mixed prairie and limestone cliffs and hills, to my people, farmers who can drive a tractor at a 45 degree angle along a hill without freaking out, and who make their long ‘O’ sound without the /w/ off-glide (the characteristic feature of the dialect in the movie Fargo).
But I had friends in Texas, and I learned a love of Southern food (Texas isn’t quite The South, but it shares with it many cultural traits).
A member of my circle of friends, her husband and their charismatic little boy are moving to Alabama, so we had a party for them. It was decided all southern food would be involved. I was put in charge of the greens.
If there’s anything better than a well-made mess o’ greens I just don’t know what it is. (For non-US-citizens: collard greens are a leafy relative of cabbage. It’s not a delicate vegetable, and takes 20-30 minutes cooking minimum. It is not, however, as thuggish as kale. The usual Southern preparation involves remote cuts of pork, usually smoked. Some use straight fatback, however.)
Sometimes here I’ve raved about exotic foods. Jeff has commented on the proper approach to Indian food. More directly related to the greens, Kopio and I have chatted about the edgier parts of pig. And making collard greens got me to thinking about the frankly magical use of sometimes marginal ingredients that so often define the heart of a regional cuisine. In my home range, smelt, a disgusting little fish, transformed, can be the center of a community event.
So what food defines your home territory?